The French group Kering announced on Friday, November 6, 2026, the appointment of British designer Martine Rose as the artistic director of Balenciaga. She will officially succeed Pierpaolo Piccioli on November 16, after only sixteen months with the Italian couturier. This decision marks a new strategic shift for the luxury house, amid a reorganization of the group’s brands.
Balenciaga opens a new chapter in its history. The fashion house, owned by the Kering group, has chosen Martine Rose to lead its creative direction. At 45 years old, the British stylist has established herself in the world of menswear thanks to an aesthetic inspired by London’s subcultures, sportswear, and everyday clothing. Based in Paris for her new role, she will be tasked with developing Balenciaga’s creative identity while preserving the legacy of its founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga.
This appointment comes the day after the announcement of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s departure, former artistic director of Valentino, who joined Balenciaga in July 2025. The Italian designer had succeeded Demna, who left to join Gucci after a decade leading the house. His tenure was ultimately quite brief. Kering did not specify the reasons for this separation, but the change occurs as the group seeks to revive growth in its main brands.
A British Designer Influenced by Underground Cultures
Born in Croydon, south London, Martine Rose founded her eponymous brand in 2007. She gradually became known for her deconstructed silhouettes, exaggerated proportions, and references to British musical cultures, notably rave, reggae, and the electronic scene. Her work revisits menswear codes by combining sportswear, traditional suits, and pieces inspired by urban fashion.
The designer is already familiar with Balenciaga, having collaborated there between 2015 and 2018 when Demna was leading the house. She contributed to the development of the menswear collections. Throughout her career, Martine Rose has also multiplied collaborations with brands like Nike and Supreme, strengthening her reputation among an audience sensitive to the intersections of luxury, fashion, and popular culture. Her return to Balenciaga could thus foster a closer alignment with the aesthetic that contributed to the house’s success under Demna.
A Strategic Leadership Change for Kering
For Luca de Meo, CEO of Kering, this appointment should allow Balenciaga to strengthen its ties with new generations. The executive highlights Martine Rose’s ability to combine creativity, innovation, and contemporary cultural references. The group is notably relying on her experience in menswear and her knowledge of trends to revitalize the house’s image.
This decision is part of a broader reorganization of Kering’s brand portfolio. The French group, also owner of Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Alexander McQueen, is going through a commercial slowdown that forces it to reconsider certain directions. Several artistic director changes have been announced in recent weeks. In 2025, Kering achieved revenue of 14.7 billion euros amid pressure on sales across several of its houses.
The First Woman at the Helm of Balenciaga’s Creative Direction
With this appointment, Martine Rose becomes the first woman to hold the artistic direction of Balenciaga since the house’s founding in 1917. This arrival represents a notable evolution for a brand historically led by male designers. It also occurs in a luxury sector where the role of women at the head of major houses remains a topic of debate.
In the statement released by Kering, Martine Rose speaks of a privilege and a responsibility. She affirms her intention to respect Balenciaga’s creative heritage while contributing to writing a new chapter. Her arrival could result in a renewal of silhouettes, collections, and the house’s communication, although no specific direction has yet been revealed.
The Challenge of Reviving an Iconic Luxury House
The new artistic director will need to find a balance between Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy, recognized for his innovations in haute couture, and the expectations of an ever-evolving international clientele. The house will also need to maintain its appeal in accessories and leather goods, two strategic categories for the profitability of major luxury brands.
Martine Rose’s appointment thus represents a creative and commercial bet for Kering. After Demna’s tenure, marked by a provocative aesthetic, followed by Pierpaolo Piccioli’s, more focused on couture tradition, Balenciaga seems to want to reconnect with an approach strongly linked to contemporary culture. The British designer’s first collections will allow measuring the scope of this new direction and its reception by professionals and consumers alike.
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