An enchanting journey to the heart of Ecuador, following in Darwin's footsteps

By our reporter Jessica Pierné.

Nestled between Peru and the Amazon, Ecuador offers remarkable diversity, blending colonial heritage, Andean traditions, and volcanic landscapes. Despite its small size, the country boasts numerous attractions and is complemented by a unique gem: the Galápagos Islands. For nature enthusiasts, these "enchanted islands" are an essential stop on any trip to Ecuador.

Step back in time in Quito's historic center

Perched in the heart of the Andes, Quito boasts a spectacular setting. Every afternoon, the verdant peaks that surround it gradually disappear under a veil of mist. Upon arrival, the change of scenery is complete. For our first day, we head to the historic center, one of Quito's main attractions. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it houses numerous colonial buildings and a rich architectural heritage. Far from being stagnant, this district remains vibrant and lively on a daily basis. Here, travelers and locals mingle in the La Mariscal neighborhood, a bustling area with hotels, restaurants, and bars. The day ends with a cable car ride over the Pichincha volcano to admire the sublime view of the Andean capital.

Take height

The day ends in the heart of the Andes, at the Quilotoa Lagoon, home to an impressive crater lake. Formed by the collapse of a volcano nearly eight centuries ago, this vast caldera, approximately three kilometers in diameter, now contains a body of water whose colors range from turquoise to emerald green, depending on the light and mineral composition. Located at an altitude of nearly 4,000 meters in the province of Cotopaxi, the lagoon is one of the emblematic sites of the Los Ilinizas Ecological Reserve. Surrounded by spectacular Andean landscapes, it also holds great cultural value for the local Kichwa communities, who maintain their traditions and ancestral way of life there.

Heading to the Galapagos archipelago

For this new day, we head to Baltra Island in the Galapagos archipelago. After breakfast and a quick flight, we board an expedition ship for an enchanting journey to one of the most beautiful biodiversity sanctuaries. Composed of 19 islands and surrounded by a vast marine reserve, this unique area is like a veritable open-air museum. Located at the confluence of three ocean currents, it constitutes a particularly rich ecosystem, home to a great diversity of marine species. It also boasts exceptional flora and fauna, including the famous giant tortoise and the land iguana. This remarkable natural heritage is, however, threatened by human activity, to the point that it was, for a time, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Danger. Since then, Ecuador, the country to which the Galapagos belong, has strengthened its efforts to preserve this unique environment.

The world of silence?

After such a long journey, far from people and cities, we expected to find a peaceful place, but we were wrong. Between the grunts, bleats, and roars of the sea lions, these marine mammals are one of the stars of the show. They pose, bask on the sand, and gaze at you with endearing eyes. However, it's important to remember to maintain a minimum distance of 2 meters for the well-being of the wildlife and for your own safety.

One of the symbols of the Galapagos

A little further on, we discover one of the emblematic species of the Ecuadorian Galapagos archipelago. Far more than just a seabird, the Galapagos gannet has become a true ecological symbol. For scientists, it is a valuable indicator of the state of the environment, while for photographers, it embodies the perfect blend of natural beauty and ecological awareness. Its vibrant rituals, synchronized flights, and social behaviors reveal a story that intertwines scientific rigor with a poetic dimension. Protecting this species means contributing to preserving the delicate balance between the ocean, sunlight, and life itself.

The birthplace of Charles Darwin's theory of evolution

After a peaceful night on the expedition ship, we stop at the Charles Darwin Research Station. Founded in 1959, the scientific station is an essential stop for exploring the Galápagos Islands. It is named after the naturalist Charles Darwin, whose research in the archipelago played a key role in the formulation of the theory of evolution. Today, the station hosts scientists from around the world and conducts numerous projects dedicated to the preservation of local ecosystems. Visitors can also enjoy educational trails and a center dedicated to the breeding of giant tortoises. To understand the history of giant tortoises, we must go back to the end of the 16th century. At that time, the Galápagos Islands were a haven for pirates. For three centuries, all sailors replenished their supplies with tortoise meat. It wasn't until 1835 that Charles Darwin began to study them. The scientist then published his book "On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection," which discusses the modifications and adaptations of certain species. This work is considered the foundational text of Darwin's theory of evolution, revolutionary for its time.

Observe wildlife in an idyllic setting

In the Galápagos archipelago, it's possible to observe this prehistoric species up close. Unlike other animals, iguanas don't flee at the approach of humans and calmly continue their activities. These marine reptiles often huddle together on the beaches of Santa Fe Island to bask in the sun. After a quiet stroll with our feet in the sand, we head out to sea for another observation of the marine wildlife.

The sharks of the Galapagos

With its unique wildlife, including blue-footed birds and algae-eating iguanas, these islands have transformed our understanding of life on Earth. But this volcanic hotspot attracts an even more mysterious creature: the scalloped hammerhead shark. With their striking silhouette, these majestic sharks can reach 4 meters in length and weigh up to 160 kilograms. Here, the full moon triggers the incredible migration of pregnant females from the Galapagos to nurseries along the coasts of Central and South America. And there's no better place to find these elusive animals than Darwin Island.

Spectacular wildlife 

We arrive at Española Island for a fantastic stopover on this land over 4 million years old. It is home to a wide variety and abundance of species, including the famous lava lizard with its astonishing colors. A unique place in the world where you can sunbathe among sea lions, blue-footed birds, and colorful reptiles.

In the heart of the Amazon

Back on the Ecuadorian coast, we head to Cuyabeno Kichwa Lodge in the northeast of the country for an immersion in Ecuador's second largest nature reserve. A spectacular location that makes an excellent base for birdwatching, hiking, and other outdoor activities. This secluded lodge, nestled in the jungle yet easily accessible, invites travelers to discover Ecuador off the beaten path. An extraordinary experience to end the trip on a high note!

TRAVEL DIARY:

GO THERE:
Flights from Paris to Quito starting at €1073 return with Air France
wwws.airfrance.fr

With HX Expeditions, one of the world's leading operators offering Galapagos expeditions since 1969. The cruise includes daily excursions and activities, including meals and drinks, all the way to the scientific center.
www.travelhx.com/fr-fr

FOR FURTHER :

Cuyabeno Kichwa Lodge, an immersion in the heart of the Ecuadorian jungle

Nestled in the heart of the jungle, this beautiful retreat is just steps from the protected Amazonian nature reserve. It's the perfect place to discover extraordinary wildlife aboard a dugout canoe and complete your trip. Established in 1979, in the provinces of Orellana and Sucumbois, Cuyabeno takes its name from the "Rio Bomdadoso," meaning "benevolent river" in the Siona language. It is also the largest wetland in the Ecuadorian Amazon inhabited by an indigenous population. Furthermore, it is the most accessible and affordable nature reserve.
https://kichwalodge.com/