ESCAPE REPORT – Discovering Nashville. A musical journey to the heart of Tennessee, following in the footsteps of Johnny Cash, Elvis Presley, and Taylor Swift

Q: A live performance not to be missed!

Launched in 1925, The Grand Ole Opry radio show was a must-listen, broadcast live every Saturday night. Over the decades, the show became a true springboard for country singers and musicians. Today, its success continues, even though the show has moved from its historic location to a large hall with superb acoustics. That evening, we came to hear Marty Stuart, who began his career alongside Johnny Cash. A traditional country artist, he received a standing ovation from an enthusiastic crowd.

By our special correspondent in Nashville (USA), Jessica Pierné.

*Our reporter Jessica Pierné on the legendary Broadway Street in Nashville*

Nashville, Tennessee: the capital of country music, where honky-tonks glitter with neon lights on Broadway Street. This world-renowned city, largely influenced in France by the imagery of Eddy Mitchell and Johnny Hallyday with their famous song... Where are my roots, Nashville or Belleville?Nashville, the capital of Tennessee, immerses us in a world where music is omnipresent. Founded at the end of the 18th century as Fort Nashborough, in homage to General Francis Nash, a hero of the Revolutionary War, the city officially became Nashville in 1806. From the beginning of the 20th century, the Ryman Auditorium, named after the industrialist who had it built, attracted musicians. It was there that the radio program was launched in 1925. Grand ole opry, a live show that has become a cult classic, broadcast every Saturday night.

From the moment you change planes in Atlanta, the atmosphere is already palpable: the sober outfits give way to hats and western boots with slanted heels. This more "authentic" America is also the promised land for musicians dreaming of following in the footsteps of country music legends. A destination as mythical as it is unique, it thrills travelers from all over the world.

Johnny Cash, an essential figure in American music

In Nashville, in the heart of vibrant Music City, the Johnny Cash Museum is a must-see for country music fans and, more broadly, for all lovers of American music. Located just steps from Broadway, this museum, entirely dedicated to the "Man in Black," retraces the extraordinary life of one of the most iconic figures of the 20th century. From the moment you enter, with its nightclub-like atmosphere, the tone is set: rare photographs, personal belongings, manuscripts, and stage costumes create a rich and meticulously designed immersive experience. The exhibition follows Johnny Cash's life from his humble beginnings in Arkansas to his international stardom, without shying away from the darker aspects of his life. From meteoric rise to spiritual pursuits, addictions, and artistic rebirth, the museum reveals the many facets of an artist who was both popular and profoundly unique. Among the most striking pieces are his guitars, his famous black outfits, and previously unseen letters and documents that shed light on his personal relationship with faith, social justice, and marginalized America. Special attention is also given to his relationship with June Carter, his partner on stage and in life, whose presence permeates the entire exhibition. Far from simply offering a nostalgic celebration, the Johnny Cash Museum presents a contemporary interpretation of his legacy. It reminds us how the artist transcended the boundaries of country music to influence rock, folk, and even popular culture as a whole. In a city where music is everywhere, this museum stands out for its simplicity and depth. Like Johnny Cash himself: without unnecessary embellishment.

https://www.johnnycashmuseum.com

*The Johnny Cash Museum, a place dedicated to "the man in black"*

The Country Music Hall of Fame, a must-see museum in Nashville

This immense museum can be explored in just a few hours, floor by floor, so rich are its collections. The tour begins with a temporary exhibition dedicated to local hero Dolly Parton, an iconic figure who made her mark in a world long dominated by men. Decidedly interactive, the museum offers visitors the opportunity to listen to thousands of songs and view a vast selection of video archives. The exhibits are equally impressive, such as the two sumptuous Cadillacs that belonged to Elvis Presley, including the famous gold-plated version. The visit continues on the ground floor with a section dedicated to soul music and the Steinway piano on which Aretha Franklin played and recorded the hit song I never loved a man in 1967. A must-see place where objects belonging to legends of soul, folk, and country music are on display. An opportunity to see the hat Bob Dylan wore during the tour Rolling Thunder Review in 1975, but also the numerous stage outfits of Dolly Parton or Taylor Swift.

https://www.countrymusichalloffame.org

*Aretha Franklin played this Apollo baby grand piano when she recorded "I Never Loved a Man (The Way I Love You)" at FAME Studios in 1967.*

*Taylor Swift, a global star from the country music scene, has a large place in the museum.*

Elvis Presley, who had been working for RCA since 1957, recorded over 240 songs at Studio B

Continuing the tour, a bus from the Country Music Hall of Fame takes visitors from the museum to the legendary RCA Studio B. Behind these brick walls, this recording studio shaped an essential part of American music history. It was here that the King recorded a series of tracks in the early 1960s. Inside, nothing has really changed. The original floor, the acoustic panels, and especially the Steinway & Sons piano, moved at Elvis Presley's request to achieve a particular reverberation. The place isn't frozen like a museum; it retains a sense of life, as if yesterday's sessions could resume at any moment. Today, the site is open to visitors, but without succumbing to folklore. The silence speaks for the artists. In a city where music is everywhere, RCA Studio B serves as a reminder that some legends are born in simplicity and are forever etched in it.

*The Steinway & Sons piano, moved at Elvis Presley's request to obtain a particular reverberation*

The Ryman Auditorium, a place of worship

Visiting the Ryman Auditorium is like stepping through Nashville's musical history in all its grandeur. Originally conceived as a place of worship by businessman Thomas Ryman, the building quickly transformed into a legendary venue. Over the decades, the biggest names have graced its stage, from Elvis Presley and Bob Dylan to Bruce Springsteen, Neil Young, and Norah Jones. A backstage tour reveals the full scope of this historic place, the true birthplace of country music. Concerts are held every week, and on this particular evening, Max McNown captivated the audience with a folk repertoire, an acoustic guitar, and intimate lyrics.

https://www.ryman.com

The legendary Honky Tonks (popular bars)

Nashville is an intense experience. From late morning until the wee hours, music resonates in the honky-tonks of Broadway Street. Some have retained their original charm. Simply push open the door of Tootsie's Orchid Lounge, Legends Corner, Rippy's, or Robert's Western World, take a seat at the bar surrounded by photos of legendary artists, order a Jack Daniel's… and let yourself be carried away.

*"Honky-tonks" originally referred to popular, often modest, bars in the southern United States where people drank, danced, and listened to live music, primarily country music.*

The National Museum of African American Music

Opened in 2021, this unique venue traces over four centuries of musical creation. Here, music is simultaneously entertainment, memory, resistance, and transmission. From gospel to blues, from jazz to soul, each room reveals connections. One encounters echoes of major figures, but also lesser-known yet equally essential journeys. In a city long associated with country music, this museum provides a necessary counterpoint. It restores the rightful place of foundational voices and pays tribute to legendary artists.

A live performance not to be missed!

Launched in 1925, the radio program The Grand Ole Opry It was an unmissable event, broadcast live every Saturday night. Over the decades, the show became a true springboard for country singers and musicians. Today, its success continues, even though the show has moved from its historic location to a large venue with superb acoustics. That evening, we came to hear Marty Stuart, who began his career alongside Johnny Cash. A traditional country artist, he received a standing ovation from an enthusiastic crowd.

*The Grand Ole Opry is a must-see show that has featured all the stars of country music.*

An acoustic concert

Country music is experiencing a revival, and artists are embracing more intimate venues, far removed from the stereotypical cowboy image so deeply ingrained in the collective imagination. In the Hutton Hotel's concert hall, delicate and vulnerable vocals envelop the sound of guitars, where superb songs resonate deep within our ears and hearts. An immersive experience not to be missed!

https://www.analognashville.com/

*An intimate setting to appreciate Country music in a different way*

Legendary guitars

Elvis Presley, Bob Dylan, Led Zeppelin, Eric Clapton—these guitars thrilled us. Located on South Avenue, this 700-square-meter space showcases the most extravagant and iconic models. A must-see, even if you don't play guitar.

https://www.gibson.com/fr-eu/pages/gibson-garage-nashville

TRAVEL DIARY:

GO THERE:
Round-trip flights from Paris to Nashville start at €875. Flights are operated by Delta Air Lines (an Air France partner). Bookings can be made directly on the Air France website.
https://wwws.airfrance.fr

WHERE TO SLEEP ?
The Fairlane Hotel: Housed in a former 1970s bank building in the heart of downtown Nashville, the Fairlane Hotel cultivates a retro elegance that captivates at first glance. Behind its contemporary facade, this unique address reinterprets mid-century aesthetics with an elegant touch, blending clean lines, fine materials, and subtle nods to the building's history. On the culinary front, the hotel offers an experience that reflects the city itself: generous and inventive. The restaurant Modern Love It showcases a modern take on American cuisine, while the adjoining cafe, popular with locals, invites you to a more relaxed break.
https://fairlanehotel.com/

WHERE TO EAT?

D'Andrews Bakery and Café: The perfect spot to enjoy a croissant and a good coffee for breakfast in a clean and relaxed setting, just steps from the Fairlane Hotel. They also offer sandwiches, salads, and packed lunches. Everything is homemade with seasonal ingredients. We love it!
https://dandrewsbakery.com

Noko Restaurant: In East Nashville, NOKO restaurant stands out as one of the city's finest dining establishments. Here, Asian flavors take center stage, transporting diners in a warm and inviting atmosphere. From salmon carpaccio and crispy rice to hurricane fries, the menu offers elegantly reimagined traditional dishes.

Peg Leg Porker: You'll appreciate the taste, the cooking, the flavors, and the cheerful atmosphere of this family-run, typically American restaurant. They serve barbecue-smoked burgers in a warm and friendly setting.

Rolf and Daughters Restaurant: This fine dining establishment has established itself as a must-visit in Tennessee's capital. Listed in the Michelin Guide, Chef Philip Krajeck offers a carefully curated menu that showcases seasonal ingredients and organic wines. The dishes are refined and comforting, ranging from homemade pasta to beef tartare and vegetarian options.
https://www.rolfanddaughters.com

Kisser Restaurant: Awarded a Bib Gourmand for its excellent value and recommended by the Michelin Guide, this Japanese restaurant is a favorite in Nashville. The intentionally concise menu offers Japanese cuisine inspired by the spirit of Kissaten (warm and intimate tea houses). Enjoy dishes like snow crab with avocado, a delicious cold ramen salad, or miso crème brûlée in a friendly and unique setting.
https://www.kisserrestaurant.com

The Patterson House: Far from the hustle and bustle of the city, Patterson House is a chic and elegant spot. Behind a discreet entrance, this cocktail bar recreates the hushed atmosphere of the Prohibition era, with its dim lighting, dark wood paneling, and attentive service. The menu features both classic cocktails and original creations.
https://www.thepattersonnashville.com

Butter milk Ranch: Nestled in Nashville's highly sought-after 12 South shopping district, this spot is always packed. From breakfast to lunch, guests can enjoy generous portions prepared with carefully selected ingredients. The coffee menu is equally impressive, as are the pastries, which are particularly delicious.
https://buttermilkranch.com/

Café Roze: This place offers coffee, tea, smoothies, and more, to enjoy on-site or to take away, as well as a selection of gourmet options ranging from simple, healthy breakfasts to more elaborate fare. The idea is to be able to take your time, read, work, and also return for the Salt & Spirit Happy Hour between 16 pm and 18 pm to experience a different atmosphere and toast with a Bloody Mary and oysters or crudités.
https://www.caferoze.com

Goo Goo Chocolate: Goo Goo Chocolate, better known as Goo Goo ClusterThe Standard Candy Bar is a true Nashville institution. Created in 1912 by the Standard Candy Company, this chocolate bar is made in their Nashville factory. Its indulgent composition combines milk chocolate, caramel, nougat, and peanuts. A real treat for those with a sweet tooth.
https://googoo.com/pages/downtown-nashville

SHOPPING:
Located a stone's throw from the Honky Tonks, Broadway It's full of small shops and restaurants. You can find vintage clothing in a disco bar, cowboy boots at Ariat, and numerous restaurants.