By our special correspondent in Palm Springs, Jessica Pierné.
Located a two-hour drive from Los Angeles, in the heart of the Southern California desert, Palm Springs is an iconic destination. With its year-round sunshine, timeless landscapes, and modernist architecture, the Coachella Valley is a veritable open-air museum. A haven for stars since the 1930s, including the unforgettable Marilyn Monroe, this inspiring city has grown in step with the American film industry. But this desert gem is also an ideal vacation destination with its breathtaking nature, vibrant culture, and unique style.
Modernist architecture
The first day of our report is dedicated to the modernist architecture that made Palm Springs famous. This journey takes us through the iconic neighborhoods of Old Las Palmas, Movie Colony, and the renowned Racquet Club, once frequented by Judy Garland, Clark Gable, Marilyn Monroe, Kirk Douglas, Elizabeth Taylor, and Frank Sinatra. Between the 1940s and 1960s, Hollywood stars found a discreet refuge here, away from the prying eyes and constraints of the studios, whose contracts required them to stay within a two-hour drive of the film sets. They commissioned residences from renowned architects such as Richard Neutra, Albert Frey, John Lautner, and E. Stewart Williams, heirs to Le Corbusier and Frank Lloyd Wright. In this city in the middle of the desert, Hollywood icons are conspicuous by their absence, but they remain more inspiring than ever.
The Racquet Club, the last ghost of old Hollywood
In 1949, Marilyn Monroe posed in a blue swimsuit on the diving board of the legendary Palm Springs Racquet Club. This photo shoot was pivotal in the star's life. It was photographer Bruno Bernard, a friend of Marilyn's, who invited the actress to this private club and introduced her to Johnny Hyde, vice president of the William Morris agency. He was immediately captivated by her and launched the career of America's most famous actress, who would have turned 100 this year. Today, almost nothing remains of the Racquet Club. The place that once hosted the biggest Hollywood stars now resembles a forgotten relic on the edge of the desert. A few traces still remain, enough to imagine what Palm Springs was like back when Hollywood came to escape there on weekends.
Marilyn's refuge
Marilyn Monroe sought refuge in this Palm Springs home after her divorce from Arthur Miller. Nicknamed "Marilyn Monroe's Dollhouse," this iconic property is listed for sale at $3,3 million. Located in the desirable Vista Las Palmas neighborhood, this villa embodies the desert modernist style of the 1960s. Designed by American architect Charles Du Bois, the house, with its clean lines, opens onto a vast, blue-tinted pool and the desert landscape. While several renovations have been undertaken over the decades, the house has retained its mid-century charm and the 1960s style, where Marilyn's influence still lingers.
The house is located at: 1326 N Rose Avenue in Palm Springs
Discover the Palm Springs Art Museum
We continue our immersion in modernism at the Palm Springs Art Museum. Formerly the Desert Museum, it was transformed into a contemporary art museum in 1996 and blends seamlessly into the desert environment. Inside, you'll find a vast collection of contemporary works on the theme of the desert, alongside creations by Picasso, Chagall, Calder, and Warhol. It also houses a Q+Art cultural center that highlights artists from the region's queer community. This initiative aims to promote recognition of LGBTQ+ art history through exhibitions and events. It also features a performance venue.
www.psmuseum.org
The vibrant neighborhood of Palm Springs
Charmed by the retro atmosphere that permeates the city, head next to the Uptown Design District and its trendy boutiques to find colorful vintage souvenirs. Sabine Luise's concept store is an inspiring and original address. This eccentric designer offers unique, hand-sewn pieces in a retro-chic style. A little further on, the Destination PSP boutique showcases homeware, clothing, and Palm Springs posters inspired by the 1960s.
A suspended moment
The day ends in style aboard the world's largest rotating aerial tramway. Just outside the city, the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway whisks you up to nearly 2,800 meters in about ten minutes, soaring over Chino Canyon. At the summit, several viewing platforms offer a breathtaking panoramic view of the Coachella Valley. Numerous trails, suitable for all levels, invite you to explore the landscapes and biodiversity of the San Jacinto Mountains. Remember to bring a warm layer: temperatures are significantly cooler up there than below.
www.pstramway.com/fr
Escape to the canyons and the San Andreas Fault
What if the best California experience was in the desert? Red Jeep Tour offers a three-hour excursion to discover the history and landscapes of one of the world's most seismically active zones. Not far from Palm Springs, we meet our guide in the heart of the desert. We depart in a red 4x4 for an unforgettable early morning experience. After a few minutes' drive, we make our first stop on foot at the San Andreas Fault. With the sweltering heat, our ranger explains that the only risk is encountering a rattlesnake, but no reptiles appear. Among the rocks and lunar landscapes lurks the fear of the Big One. California is where seismic activity is most frequent. We then head towards Indian Canyons. Once inhabited by the Cahuilla Indians, this lush oasis boasts the highest density of Washingtonia filifera palm trees in the world. We visit the reserve and huts similar to those once used by the Indians.
www.red-jeep.com
A cultural immersion
In the Coachella Valley, temperatures frequently climb to 40°C (104°F). Yet, the atmosphere remains light and decidedly relaxed. This is undoubtedly because Southern California has developed around a true art of living focused on pleasure. In Indio, home to one of the world's most famous music festivals, the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival, fashion is an integral part of the city's cultural heart. Here, almost anything goes. The most representative example is undoubtedly the concept store "The Place," which showcases local artists who cultivate a cool, bohemian retro aesthetic.
https://theplaceneighborhoodmarket.com/
La Quinta
In La Quinta, the desert is an experience. From the moment you step into the old town, the tone is set: vibrant colors, mystical murals, and palm trees stretching as far as the eye can see. You naturally slow down, captivated by the beauty of the murals by artist Nate Frizzell. A little further on, you lose yourself in the quiet streets of La Quinta Cove. Very quickly, the trails take over, and the desert unfolds before you: dramatic landscapes, silent canyons, and endless light. At the end of the day, the sky is bathed in a mysterious pink light that covers both the town and the desert.
Indian Wells: pperfecting your backhand on a legendary court
To begin our final day, we head to Indian Wells, a tennis paradise nestled in the heart of the California desert. The history of tennis here dates back to the 1930s, when the first racquet clubs in the area opened, attracting Hollywood celebrities. To hit a few balls, you can book an hour-long lesson with a professional and play on the court. Reservations can be made directly on the website.
https://indianwellstennisgarden.com
Sunnylands, the hideaway of American presidents
Before leaving Palm Springs, we set off to discover a legendary address. Walter Annenberg, diplomat and philanthropist, and his wife Leonore, emblematic figures of 20th-century American families, hosted seven US presidents, as well as royalty and Hollywood celebrities, at their Rancho Mirage estate for over 40 years. Designed in 1966 by architect A. Quincy Jones, the main residence can be visited with a guide from the foundation. Inside, one discovers works of art and photographs from another era. In the former owner's office, some thirty photographs are on display. Among them are Dwight Eisenhower, Richard Nixon, Ronald Reagan, Barack Obama, and Queen Elizabeth II. We walk through these rooms steeped in history where numerous leaders and celebrities dined, danced, and spent a few relaxing days in this modernist residence, where photography is prohibited. An online reservation, often made well in advance, is essential. However, access remains free for the exhibitions in the visitor center, opened in 2012, as well as for the superb desert garden, whose design is inspired by Impressionist landscapes.
https://sunnylands.org/
TRAVEL DIARY:
GO THERE:
Round-trip flights from Paris to Los Angeles starting at €838 with Air Tahiti Nui
https://fr.airtahitinui.com
More than just an airline, Air Tahiti Nui is a sensory experience. From the moment you board, a smile and a word of welcome in Tahitian, accompanied by a freshly picked tiare flower, mark the moment: Europe fades away, giving way to another reality, as if an invisible threshold has just been crossed. On board, a subtle cultural presence, Tahitian music, and a painting by Paul Gauguin extend this inner journey, giving the impression that the archipelago is already inviting itself in. Attentive and respectful of each passenger's pace, the crew embodies a profoundly Polynesian hospitality. Their attire, whether fitted Purotu dresses or more flowing Mamaruau gowns, completes this immersion in the world of the islands.
On board the Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner, the atmosphere immediately immerses you in the Polynesian spirit. The spacious and modern cabin is distinguished by its remarkable quietness: up to 60% quieter than a conventional aircraft. The air is renewed every two minutes, and the cabin pressure, equivalent to an altitude of 1.800 meters, minimizes the effects of jet lag. Finally, high-speed Wi-Fi allows you to stay connected throughout your journey. And on the environmental front, Air Tahiti Nui is implementing several initiatives: newer, more fuel-efficient aircraft (up to 20% more fuel-efficient), a reduction in single-use plastics, travel kits designed with sustainability in mind, and a partnership with CarbonClick to help offset CO2 emissions.
In 2026, Air Tahiti Nui was voted the best leisure airline by Global Traveler magazine. This was the sixth time the Polynesian airline had received this distinction, thanks to traveler votes.
WHERE TO SLEEP ?
Hotel Paseo Autograph Collection****: Ideally located along the famous El Paseo, nicknamed the "Rodeo Drive of the Desert," the Paseo Autograph Collection hotel is just steps away from boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants. Its vintage design, with 50s influences, makes it the perfect place to experience a blend of nostalgia and modernity on the edge of the California desert. The 146 rooms are arranged around the turquoise pool and each has a lovely balcony. For dining, the Larkspur Grill restaurant offers classic American cuisine, and the poolside cocktail bar is the perfect spot for a drink or lunch.
https://www.hotelpaseo.com
Renaissance Esmeralda Resort & Spa, Indian Wells****: Nestled in the iconic Coachella Valley, this vast resort blends seamlessly into the landscape. Its discreet entrance conceals a majestic lobby, as well as newly renovated rooms and suites. On offer? An immersive spa experience with a Californian treatment for a moment of absolute well-being. For culinary enthusiasts, the Kestrel restaurant is one of Palm Springs' finest. The menu features West Coast classics in an elegant yet relaxed setting. A true haven of peace with its cacti, golf course, and lagoon-colored pool.
https://www.marriott.com/
WHERE TO EAT ?
Canopy Wine Lounge: Discovering the restaurant is like stepping into the treetops, where lush vegetation blends with suspended lamps. To the rhythm of lounge music, the chef's creations unfold through beautifully presented salads. Vegetarian dishes, meats, and fish are enhanced by subtle spices and excellent wines.
https://www.canopypalmsprings.com/
Farm: The enchanting setting evokes the south of France in the 50s with its checkered tablecloths, red parasols, and bougainvillea. It's the perfect place to enjoy a delicious mushroom omelet, a Breton galette, or a croque madame.
https://farmpalmsprings.com/
Books: More than just a restaurant, Livs is a complete experience where art and gastronomy meet. Whether you fancy a burger, a salad, Californian specialties, or a Mexican drink before visiting the museum, you'll appreciate the eclectic menu and unique setting.
https://www.psmuseum.org/visit/livs
Gabino's Creperie East: Between visits to the Coachella Valley, take the time to savor a Buffalo chicken crepe or a Caesar salad. This is a place that awakens our taste buds and whets our appetite for unexpected flavor combinations.
https://www.gabinoseast.com
Kestrel: Renowned California chef Richard Blais offers West Coast classics in a quintessential California setting. The restaurant also boasts a lovely terrace with panoramic views of the resort's golf course. The menu features Pacific Ocean fish, grilled meats, and colorful salads. And don't forget the delicious cocktails, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic.
https://www.kestrel.kitchen/
The Pink Cabana Designed by Martyn Lawrence Bullard, the Pink Cabana at the Sands Hotel & Spa is a modern and refreshing interpretation of the grand tennis clubs of the 50s and 60s in Palm Springs. It's the perfect place to cool off with a watermelon juice and enjoy a delicious break at any time of day.
https://sandshotelandspa.com/dining-bar/
Willie's Modern Fare: For a chic and intimate dining experience and to enjoy fine meats, head to Willie's Modern Fare. While salmon and sole are featured on the menu, beef is the star attraction. It's served as fillet, grilled or roasted, accompanied by seasonal vegetables.
https://www.williesrm.com/
In & Out : This iconic fast-food joint is a must-visit in California. Burgers with melted cheddar, crispy fries, and indulgent milkshakes are on the menu, which has remained virtually unchanged since the 50s. It's a nostalgic stop where you'll find just as many locals as festival-goers in search of... c and an experience made in US.
In & Out, 82177 Ave 42, Indio, CA 92203, USA
https://www.in-n-out.com/locations
OUR FAVORITE PLACES:
Sabine Luise's workshop is a concept store where extravagance is celebrated by its eccentric creator. Sabine offers unique, hand-sewn pieces with vintage accents.
Atelier Sabine Luise, 168 North Palm Canyon, Palm Springs, California 9226
https://www.instagram.com/ateliersabineluise/
Destination PSP Founded by two owners who recently moved to Palm Springs from New York, this charming boutique offers creations inspired by modernist icons. It features homeware, clothing, and accessories.
https://destinationpsp.com/
The Place The place where you'll find a Coachella sweatshirt, unusual items, old vinyl records, and local crafts. 45145 OASIS ST INDIO CA 92201
https://theplaceneighborhoodmarket.com
More information: www.visitgreaterpalmsprings.com
