By our special correspondent in Jordan, Jessica Pierné.
Some journeys leave an indelible mark. Jordan is one of them, if only for Petra. This ancient city, carved into the rocks of a thousand shades of sandstone, has become permanently etched in our memories. Just a four-hour flight from Paris, this Middle Eastern country feels like an enchanting interlude between the Mediterranean world and the Orient, where numerous civilizations have flourished. The country can also be explored through the route of Lawrence of Arabia, from the Red Sea to the spectacular Wadi Rum. A popular destination for adventurers seeking history, culture, and wide-open spaces.
An ancient treasure discovered by an explorer
Our journey begins in Petra, considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Our Bedouin guide tells us the story of its discovery by a young explorer. On August 22, 1812, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt made a discovery that would revolutionize the history of archaeology: the mythical city of Petra, hidden in the heart of the mountains of southern Jordan, was finally revealed to Western eyes. The former capital of the powerful Nabataean kingdom, this desert metropolis was once a thriving crossroads of major caravan routes. A nomadic people of Arab origin who settled down, the Nabataeans built their fortune on the trade of frankincense and spices, transported from southern Arabia to the ports of the Mediterranean. A learned adventurer and astute Orientalist, Burckhardt was no ordinary traveler. Commissioned by the British to find the source of the Niger River, he learned Arabic at Cambridge before perfecting his skills in Aleppo, Syria. To better blend into the lands he traversed, he converted to Islam and adopted the name Sheikh Ibrahim. It was under this identity, in 1812, that he embarked on the journey from Damascus to Cairo, a voyage during which, through skillful planning and remarkable intuition, he managed to approach the forgotten city, revealing to the world one of the most fascinating jewels of Antiquity.
Following in the footsteps of Indiana Jones
What if Steven Spielberg was right? Could Petra house the Holy Grail, the legendary cup believed to have collected the blood of Christ during the Crucifixion? In October 2024, American archaeologists from the American Center of Research, in collaboration with the Jordanian Department of Antiquities, unearthed a burial site containing twelve skeletons in the heart of the Nabataean city, beneath the Khazneh, the famous "Treasury."
Its monumental pink sandstone facade, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has entered the collective imagination by serving as the backdrop for the final scene ofIndiana Jones and the Last Crusade, the third installment of the adventures of the most famous archaeologist in cinema, released in 1989. In this fictional story, Indiana Jones, after a series of trials, meets the last guardian of the Grail and seizes the sacred chalice, immediately engulfed in the collapse of the sanctuary.
The other unmissable building in Petra
Perched high on the hill, the Monastery evokes the Treasury, but on a much grander scale: 50 meters wide and 42 meters high. This Nabataean tomb is believed to have been dedicated to the cult of Obodas, the only Nabataean king to be deified after his death in the 1st century BC. Its name derives from the crosses carved on the interior walls, suggesting that it was used as a church during the Byzantine era. Access to the Monastery is via a staircase of over 800 steps, beginning at the Nabataean Museum and following the ancient processional route.
Following in the footsteps of David Lean and Lawrence of Arabia
A large part of the filming of the legendary movie Lawrence of ArabiaInspired by the life of British officer Thomas Edward Lawrence, the film was shot in the Wadi Rum desert. A lunar landscape where we will spend our first night.
The benefits of salt water
To the west of Jordan lies the Dead Sea, famous for its waters being ten times saltier than those of other seas, or rather, ten times less saturated. Located in a region with a tropical climate, its richness in magnesium, sodium, potassium, and bromide, among other nutrients, allows for effortless floating. Lying on your back and letting yourself be carried by the gentle movement of the water provides a unique sensation. For nearly 2.000 years, its healing properties have been recognized: combined with sunlight and mud, this water contributes to the treatment of numerous chronic illnesses as well as respiratory and dermatological conditions.
Jordan's only seaside resort
Jordan's only port and sole seaside resort, Aqaba has held a strategic position since antiquity. It is home to a concentration of upscale hotels and diving centers. Beneath the surface, the seabed reveals a profusion of corals and multicolored fish. You don't need to be an experienced diver to admire the graceful movements of the Napoleon wrasse, rainbow wrasse, butterflyfish, clownfish, parrotfish, and boxfish. In turquoise waters, marine life thrives, gently carried by a calm current. A passionate diver himself, King Abdullah II has personally committed to preserving this exceptional underwater heritage.
A 12th-century fortified castle
The ramparts appear around a bend in the road. The route leaves the salty depths of the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, to climb to a plateau a thousand meters above sea level, its sandstone hues carved with ravines and dominated by sheer cliffs. Lawrence of Arabia walked this path during his formative journey to the Orient. The Oxford student carried a Mauser pistol in his pocket and a Kodak camera with a tripod in his bag, fulfilling a dream while preparing a thesis on the influence of the Crusades on architecture.
Amman, the Jordanian capital
Perched atop its seven hills, the Jordanian capital is more than just a transit point. The ancient city of Philadelphia holds a true archaeological treasure. Dominating the lower city, the citadel houses the Temple of Hercules, from which one can admire the impressive Roman theater. Traversed for centuries by dynasties of builders, the eastern bank of the biblical Jordan River is also a cultural destination well worth visiting for its beauty and history.
TRAVEL DIARY:
GO THERE:
From €760 return with Royal Jordanian.
https://www.rj.com/fr
The Jordan pass: The Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities has introduced the Jordan Pass. Purchased online for around €100, this document, printed before departure, allows for significant savings: it serves as a visa (otherwise, it costs €60 at Amman airport), and allows you to halve the entrance fee to the main sites to visit.
More: https://www.jordanpass.jo/
WHERE TO SLEEP ?
At Mövenpick Dead Sea Jordan, a 5-star resort with swimming pool, private beach, panoramic views of the Dead Sea and a superb 6000m2 spa.
https://movenpick.accor.com/en/middle-east/jordan/dead-sea/resort-dead-sea.html
At Petra Moon Luxury,a 5-star hotel with swimming pool, free Wi-Fi and stunning views of Petra. https://petramoonluxury.com/
At W AmmanAccommodation with a decidedly international style. Located in the Abdali district. If you have already stayed in a W hotel, this establishment in the financial district will hold no surprises: you will find the elegant and characteristic decor of the brand, which has made W a reliable choice for both business and leisure travelers.
https://whotel.com-amman.com/fr/
More information is available on the official website of the Jordan Tourism Board:
fr.visitjordan.com
