The oldest lace factory in Calais is closing its doors for good. Placed in receivership, the Darquer company will cease operations on July 17, 2026, bringing to an end nearly two centuries of textile history. This demise marks another blow to French Leavers lace, which remains highly sought after by major fashion houses.
A historic factory linked to French heritage
Founded in 1840, Darquer was one of the last companies capable of producing the famous Calais-Caudry lace using Leavers looms, those imposing machines brought from England in the 19th century and perfected with the Jacquard system. The company still owned around forty of these traditional looms and employed 45 people before its final closure.
The factory has spanned the ages, becoming a key player in the luxury and design world. Its laces have been used by several major brands, including Chantal Thomass, Etam Lingerie, and the British designer Peter Pilotto. Its history is also linked to that of the de Gaulle family: in 1921, Yvonne Vendroux, the future wife of Charles de Gaulle, wore a dress made with Darquer lace for their wedding.
For Corentin Potencier, president of the French Federation of Lace and Embroidery, quoted by franceinfo, this closure represents "an important chapter of our French heritage that is disappearing." He points out, however, that this shutdown does not mean the end of Calais-Caudry lace, even though the industry has been considerably reduced over the years.
An industry weakened despite the return of lace to fashion
The closure of Darquer illustrates the current paradox of this industry: while lace is experiencing a resurgence of interest among designers and the general public, established manufacturers are struggling to maintain their businesses. Research on this material is growing rapidly on social media and inspiration platforms, but this popularity benefits the aesthetics of lace more than the French manufacturers that perpetuate its traditional production.
For several years, Leavers lace producers have faced increasing competition from less expensive industrial lace, particularly from Asia. The complexity of the manufacturing process, the cost of old machinery, and the scarcity of necessary skills make it difficult for historic workshops to survive.
The industry had nonetheless gained significant recognition in 2024 with the awarding of the Geographical Indication "Calais-Caudry Lace," intended to protect this unique expertise and promote local production in the face of imitations. However, this progress was not enough to reverse the trend.
With the closure of Darquer, only a few Leavers lace specialists would remain in Calais and Caudry. This situation worries those who defend this industrial heritage, as the profession, which once employed tens of thousands of people, now numbers only a few hundred.
In Calais, emotions are running high. Mayor Natacha Bouchart told Nord Littoral that it was a "very hard blow" for the city, historically associated with lace. The closure of Darquer serves as a stark reminder of a harsh reality: a skill recognized worldwide can continue to fascinate designers while gradually disappearing due to the lack of a viable business model.
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