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Olivier Rousteing appointed artistic director of Rabanne after 14 years at Balmain

Olivier Rousteing appointed artistic director of Rabanne after 14 years at Balmain. (Instagram Olivier Rousteing)
Olivier Rousteing appointed artistic director of Rabanne after 14 years at Balmain. (Instagram Olivier Rousteing)

Olivier Rousteing is the new artistic director of Rabanne. The fashion house, owned by the Spanish group Puig, officially announced his appointment on Tuesday. The French designer succeeds Julien Dossena, who left in June after thirteen years at the helm of the collections. His first collection will be presented during Paris Fashion Week in March 2027, for the Fall/Winter 2027-2028 season.  

An appointment announced on July 14th

Rabanne confirmed Olivier Rousteing's arrival on social media. The designer himself announced the news by posting a text message exchange with his mother, accompanied by the phrase "Let the journey begin ." He described joining the house as " a tremendous honor ." The 40-year-old designer now assumes responsibility for Rabanne's artistic identity. He will direct the fashion collections and participate in developing a universe encompassing ready-to-wear, accessories, and beauty. Rabanne aims to continue expanding the brand into new product categories while further integrating its fashion, fragrance, and cosmetics businesses. "For me, fashion is first and foremost about emotion, identity, and self-confidence ," said Olivier Rousteing. He also praised the work done by Julien Dossena and expressed his respect for the legacy of Paco Rabanne, based on the use of unusual materials, metallic constructions and an experimental approach to clothing design.

First collection expected in March 2027

Olivier Rousteing will have several months to prepare his first runway show. The presentation is scheduled for March 2027 during Paris Fashion Week. It will unveil the Fall/Winter 2027-2028 collection and provide the first clear indication of the direction the designer has chosen for Rabanne. The house has an immediately recognizable vocabulary, composed of dresses assembled with metal plates, mesh, discs, sequins, and industrial materials. Olivier Rousteing is also known for his structured silhouettes, abundant embroidery, strong shoulders, and clothing designed for red carpets and major international events.

14 years at the helm of Balmain

Olivier Rousteing left Balmain in November 2025 , after 14 years as creative director. He was appointed in April 2011 at just 25 years old, replacing Christophe Decarnin. At the time, he was one of the youngest designers to head a Parisian fashion house of this stature. During his tenure at Balmain, he developed both the women's and menswear lines and strengthened the brand's international presence. He combined traditional couture techniques with a spectacular aesthetic, dominated by gold embellishments, body-hugging silhouettes, structured jackets, and military references. The designer also cultivated a communication strategy heavily focused on celebrities and social media. Beyoncé, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, Kylie Jenner, Jennifer Lopez, Zendaya, and many other celebrities have worn his designs. The term "Balmain Army" was used to refer to the group of models, artists, and brand ambassadors closely associated with the house. His departure from Balmain was announced on November 5, 2025. Olivier Rousteing stated at the time that he was proud of the work accomplished with his teams, without revealing the name of his next employer. Antonin Tron, founder of the Atlein brand, subsequently succeeded him as creative director of Balmain.

Olivier Rousteing replaces Julien Dossena

Julien Dossena left Rabanne on June 24, 2026. Having joined in 2013, the former collaborator of Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga was tasked with revitalizing the house's fashion collections and reinterpreting Paco Rabanne's iconic designs. For 13 years, he modernized the chainmail dresses, metallic pieces, and material combinations associated with the founder. His collections were worn by Beyoncé, Miley Cyrus, Sabrina Carpenter, Anya Taylor-Joy, and Michelle Obama. He also designed a haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier and led a commercial collaboration between Rabanne and H&M. His departure left the position vacant for less than three weeks. Olivier Rousteing's name had been circulating since spring 2026. The confirmation on July 14th put an end to the rumors and entrusted the house to one of the most high-profile French designers of his generation.

From Paco Rabanne to Rabanne

The fashion house was founded in 1966 by Paco Rabanne, born Francisco Rabaneda y Cuervo. The designer made a name for himself with his collection of 12 unwearable dresses made from contemporary materials , composed of garments crafted from sheets of metal, plastic, and acetate. His creations quickly became associated with the futurism of the 1960s and with figures like Françoise Hardy and Jane Fonda. The designer began working with Puig in the late 1960s to develop his fragrances. The Spanish group acquired the entire Paco Rabanne business, including fashion and accessories, in 1987. The fragrance line subsequently gained considerable prominence with names like Calandre , Paco Rabanne pour Homme , 1 Million , Invictus , and Fame . In June 2023, a few months after Paco Rabanne's death at the age of 88, the brand dropped the "Paco" moniker and became simply Rabanne. This change accompanied the launch of a new visual identity and the development of the makeup business.

A strategic brand for the Puig group

Rabanne is now one of the most powerful brands in Puig's portfolio, alongside Carolina Herrera, Jean Paul Gaultier, Nina Ricci, and Charlotte Tilbury. It was the first brand in the group to surpass one billion euros in annual sales, a result driven primarily by its fragrances. Olivier Rousteing will now have to develop the fashion side while maintaining consistency with the beauty business. His first public show is scheduled for March 2027. This show will reveal how he will use Rabanne's metallic codes after fourteen years dedicated to embroidery, structured silhouettes, and the spectacular glamour of Balmain.

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