Exclusive report from our special correspondent in São Tomé, Jessica Pierné
The Portuguese navigators, who discovered the islands of Sao Tome and Principe on December 21, 1471, had no idea that this remote archipelago off the coast of Gabon would become the world's largest cocoa exporter by the end of the 1875th century. For about fifty years, these islands were commonly called the "chocolate islands," as the trade was so lucrative for Portuguese settlers. After the abolition of slavery in 1953, a system of indigenous peoples was established. The workforce, brought from other Portuguese colonies such as Mozambique, the Cape Verde Islands, and Angola, labored in harsh conditions, and intensive cocoa production ended in XNUMX. Today, the two peaceful and uncrowded islands have retained a captivating charm where wild nature drowns the traveler's gaze.
Breathtaking landscapes
Volcanic. Full of surprises. The island of a thousand colors is carpeted in an emerald green that the sun yearns to pierce to overcome the shadow of the tropical forest. Rising in the middle of the Gulf of Guinea, Sao Tome seduces at first glance. What is only dust on the world map reveals itself to be grandiose before your eyes all along the winding road. Boca Do Inferno is one of the most popular attractions. The cliffs of the "jaws of hell" facing the roar of the ocean are even more impressive in rough weather.
The center of the world
The small island of Rolas, which means "Dove Islet," is considered the center of the world by geographers, where the Greenwich Meridian meets the Equator. Guests can stay at the Pestana Equator Hotel, which overlooks the Atlantic Ocean.
The best organic chocolate
In 1995, Claudio Corallo (an Italian agricultural engineer) purchased an old cocoa plantation on Principe, the neighboring island of São Tomé, with its unadulterated, unhybridized flavors. In the warmth of the equatorial forest, he cultivated ancient varieties, carefully pruning and maintaining the plants. Transported by boat to São Tomé, the harvested beans were then roasted, peeled, and ground in his workshop. The result: organic, pure cocoa chocolate bars hailed by connoisseurs as the best in the world.
A wild and preserved archipelago
In this corner of paradise where nature has remained in its wild state, we marvel at the rocky peaks, a porcelain rose or even the incredible Gabon parrot. The islands are best explored on foot, just as they were in the time of explorers. The climate here is equatorial, and visitors are cut off from the world because there are no paths or roads in some parts of the island. After a long walk through the jungle, you feel at peace.
A tragic story
Nicknamed "the islands of the middle of the world," Sao Tome & Principe surprises with the richness of their mixed history. When the Portuguese discovered these islands at the end of the world in 1471, they hastened to install a cross on the island of Sao Tome as a symbol of Catholic influence. On March 31, 1492, the Alhambra Decree ordered the expulsion of Jews refusing Christian baptism. Among the Jews forced into exile, nearly 2000 children were taken from their families and landed in 1493 in the Sao Tome archipelago. The Portuguese separated them from their families to ensure they received a Catholic religious education. This unfortunate history explains why the Santomeans also have Jewish origins. The Portuguese settlers would never repeat the experience.
The capital
Before leaving, you must visit the eponymous capital of Sao Tome. This city offers beautiful surprises for those who take the time to discover them. As you stroll through the streets, your gaze wanders over the Portuguese colonial-style facades to the São Sebastião Fort, which overlooks the Atlantic Ocean.
Remains in the heart of the jungle
"Who showed this long road? This road to São Tomé?" singing Cesaria Evora, in its famous title soda, in memory of his fellow Cape Verdeans once forcibly exiled to the island. This melancholic ballad was written in memory of the cruel enterprise of King João II. Today, there remain the remains of the old plantations and a few villages populated by Cape Verdean descendants.
The silent world
Between July and September, in the southern part of the island, it is possible to observe humpback whales, manatees, dolphins, and sea turtles. Hotels on Rolas Island offer excursions to witness sea turtles laying eggs on the beaches bordering the ocean.
ROUTE BOOK
Roundtrip Flights:
From 1314 euros per person for Sao Tome from Paris
Accommodation:
Praia Inhame Eco Lodge – Room with sea view or in the lush gardens from 181 euros for two people. www.hotelpraiainhame.com/m/fr/
Pestana Sao Tomé Ocean & Spa Hotel***** Room from 161 euros for two people.
www.pestana.com/fr/hotel/pestana-sao-tome
