For more than 20 years, Sri Lanka, a remote island in the Indian Ocean, was torn apart by civil war, leaving 100.000 people dead. "the tear of India", because of its shape resembling a small drop located just south of India, the country found its smile again in 2009 and many tourists want to explore this destination with flamboyant colors.
Exclusive report from our special correspondent in Sri Lanka, Jessica Pierné
Sunset on Bentota Beach
As soon as we leave the airport in Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka, we take in a breath of warm air in a golden light and dust. We head towards the west coast to reach the city of bentota. On the edge of the tea plantations, a herd of elephants gives the expedition a Kipling feel. The adventure continues at the slow pace of the local roads, until a golden beach appears. In this country linked to the Hindu myth of the "Ramayana," our journey takes on a spiritual dimension, but it is impossible to forget the civil war that plunged the country into hell for 26 years.
A 26-year civil war that still leaves its mark
It all began in the 70s with the creation of Tamil Eelam, whose goal was to establish an independent state in the north of the country, where the majority of Tamils lived. In 1983, the independence organization killed 13 soldiers. This attack marked the beginning of a civil war that would last 26 years and leave more than 100.000 dead. To understand this bloody civil war, we must go back to the last century and the British colonial period. Before 1948, the year of the country's independence, the Sinhalese had fewer privileges than their Tamil neighbors. But after independence, the situation changed: Tamils were discriminated against and marginalized by the Sinhalese majority. They were thus deprived of certain rights, such as access to universities. Today, Tamils remain prey to persecution and live as a minority in a militarized environment.
Yala National Park is home to 350 elephants
Between coastal lagoons and vast savannahs, we find Yala National Park, which immerses visitors in a setting worthy of The Jungle Book. At the beginning of the 20th century, Lanka, the "resplendent island," was almost entirely covered in virgin forest and had a population of 20.000 elephants. Today, only a quarter of the island remains covered in forest. It is estimated that only 300 to 4.000 wild elephants remain in Sri Lanka. We encounter them randomly in villages, in temple courtyards, on riverbanks, and in national parks. To be almost certain of seeing them without disturbing them, we set off with a ranger around the water reservoirs. We cross the bush, plains, and lagoons where wildlife is very rich. It is in the western part of the park that we observe pachyderms, a few crocodiles, and a leopard. An unforgettable adventure in the heart of the animal kingdom!
Buddhism largely dominates religious life in Sri Lanka
Detaching oneself from one's desires, forgetting one's ego, and attaining enlightenment. The principles of Theravada Buddhism are practiced by 70% of the Sinhalese population. Sri Lanka is the country with the longest Buddhist civilization. and its current is the doctrine of identity renewal in the face of colonization. In temples far from the world, some travelers come to meditate in the eye of Buddha to find peace and meditate in sacred temples.
Anuradhapura, an essential Buddhist pilgrimage site in Sri Lanka
The landscape unfolds to the rhythm of coconut plantations, shrimp farms, and immaculate temples. It is in the heart of the legendary island of Ceylon that we discover the ancient kingdom of Anuradhapura, founded in 377 BC. In this country torn apart by civil war for more than twenty years between the Sinhalese and Tamils, the religious site has remained intact. There, we discover a 2.000-year-old sacred tree where Buddha achieved enlightenment. This historic city is also home to the Ranmasu Uyana, a 14-hectare ancient park surrounded by three Buddhist temples. It houses a strange rock called the Stargate, which represents a mysterious map of the stars. Some believe it unlocks the secrets of the universe.
Marco Polo on Sri Lanka: “Heaven exists, I have met it!”
“Heaven exists, I have met it!” marveled Marco Polo on a stopover in Ceylon in the 13th century... After a 24-year journey, it was in prison in Genoa in 1299 that the famous Venetian merchant and explorer dictated his story to his cellmate. Lavishly illustrated with 265 paintings, this copy is the most prestigious of the 143 known manuscripts. Its passage through Sri Lanka is a true journey through time that allows the reader to imagine what the Sri Lankan landscapes looked like a few hundred years ago.
Train travel is one of the most beautiful experiences in Sri Lanka
Ordinary train journeys? Not in Sri Lanka! Rail journeys allow travelers to feast their eyes. With the window open, we pass through tea plantations, rice paddies, and pretty coastal towns. Departing from Galle towards Colombo, the sea spray penetrates the interior of the train. Before reaching the Sri Lankan capital, we travel along the coastline, then the tropical landscapes take over, adding a touch of magic to the scenery.
Colombo, a city named after Christopher Columbus
Columbo is a must-see in Sri Lanka, and the historic Fort district is full of colonial monuments to visit. The city owes its name to the explorer Christopher Columbus, baptized in 1505 by Portuguese colonists. In this city where religions coexist respectfully, it is possible to visit a Hindu temple, a cathedral, a Buddhist temple, or the famous Red Mosque in the tourist district of Pettah.
ROUTE LOG:
Getting there:
Direct flight Paris-Colombo with Air France, from €918 return
www.airfrance.fr
Where to stay?
Au Cinnamon Bentota Beach, in a luxurious and lush setting facing the Indian Ocean
www.cinnamonhotels.com/cinnamon-bentota-beach
What should we quickly remember?
For more than 20 years, Sri Lanka, a remote island in the Indian Ocean, was torn apart by civil war, leaving 100.000 people dead. Nicknamed "India's Teardrop" because of its shape resembling a small droplet located just south of India, the country bounced back in 2009, and many tourists are eager to explore this vibrantly colored destination.
