BHV Marais is changing hands and turning the page on Shein. Seven months after the highly controversial arrival of the Asian giant in the heart of the Parisian department store, the new management team wants to end the partnership. A sudden reversal, embraced as a “Strategic error”.
The BHV department store is changing operators.
The Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), which had operated the BHV Marais department store since 2023, announced on Tuesday the sale of the Parisian department store's business to its management team. The transaction is being led by Karl-Stéphane Cottendin, former CEO of BHV and the SGM group, who is stepping down to take over the reins of the store. The sale includes the BHV Marais on Rue de Rivoli in Paris, as well as the BHV Parly 2 in the Yvelines department. It does not affect the seven BHV stores outside of Paris, formerly Galeries Lafayette, which remain under SGM's management. Five of these stores welcomed Shein this year.
Shein asked to leave
The new team wants to end the partnership with Shein, which has been located in BHV Marais since November 2025. Karl-Stéphane Cottendin acknowledges that this establishment was a “strategic error” and indicates that Shein will have "ideally" left the department store before Christmas.
Shein's arrival at BHV was presented as a world first for the brand: a permanent physical space within a historic department store in the heart of Paris. The launch immediately sparked strong opposition, targeting the platform's ultra-fast fashion model and its impact on retail, BHV's image, and the brands already present in the store.
A partnership that has become toxic
As soon as Shein's arrival was announced, several retailers left or threatened to leave BHV. Some denounced the association with a brand they deemed incompatible with their values. Others also cited payment delays and broken commercial agreements. The departure of brands like Dior, Sandro, and Guerlain exacerbated the department store's image crisis. Independent retailers also withdrew their products, sometimes buying back their own stock to avoid appearing on BHV's shelves alongside Shein.
Back to the historic heart of BHV
The new management team aims to refocus BHV on its core businesses: home furnishings, DIY, decoration, furniture, lighting, tableware, linens, arts and crafts, appliances, bedding, and books. The stated objective is to rebuild the store's identity around its traditional DNA, moving away from the image of ultra-fast fashion. Karl-Stéphane Cottendin will be joined by, among others, Valérie Chaleyssin, Marketing Director of BHV Marais, Medy Ty, Artistic Director, and Élodie Nho, Head of Human Resources. A significant portion of the new structure's capital will also be made available to BHV employees, who number around 700 in Paris.
Frédéric Merlin admits to mistakes
Frédéric Merlin, co-founder of SGM, admits to having made mistakes in managing the situation. He maintains that the store was supposed to close before its acquisition from Galeries Lafayette and says he fought to keep it open. He acknowledges, however, that the operation has “derailed”This comes particularly after the failed attempt to acquire the BHV Marais building, now owned by the Canadian fund Brookfield. This sale marks a clear break: BHV remains open, but its Shein transformation has been halted. The Parisian department store is now trying to erase seven months of controversy and regain control of its image.
